Month: September 2014

Romantic Watch Witness Eternal Love

According to incomplete statistics, 68 %% of fashion people want to propose and get engaged during the festival. The token of witness to love has become the most anticipated protagonist of this season. In addition to the regular roses and rings, have you ever thought that when you give time to the other party, love will also eternally express love with high-end watches, which definitely sets you apart. Known as the emperor’s jeweler, the jeweler’s emperor’s famous jewelry and watch brand Cartier has prepared a special New Year gift for the lovers of the world-a limited edition PASHA watch series.
The story of Pasha comes from the middle of the 20th century, when Cartier launched a round watch with a protective cap on the crown to ensure that the winding crown has excellent water resistance. This is Cartier’s first waterproof watch PashadeCarti 鄄er. Over the years, the Pasha watch has developed a variety of models, with a round and soft round body shape, a unique chain-shaped long head lock, a long head lock decorated with flashing sapphire, a tic-tac-toe metal glass surface fence, and a sword Shaped hands, Arabic numerals and leather straps, show the elegant and aristocratic style of softness and softness, which has attracted countless distinguished men and confident women.
This year, Cartier launched 3,000 global limited edition pink PashaC watches and 2,000 global limited edition pink purple PashaC watches to interpret the eternal love of complete loyalty. The warm red and romantic purple represent the promise, the round shape is like a warm sun, becoming another ego on the wrist, illuminating every moment of life. Wear a precious and extraordinary watch next to the warm candlelight of the new year, listen to the promise that represents eternity-princess-like experience, Cartier limited edition out-of-print love highly respected by the global royal family, and a happy woman is worth having. Pasha’s new 42mm large-scale men’s watch is also a good choice to express his affection to his beloved in the new year. Streamlined slim profile, the beveled corners of the case are engraved with delicate ClousdeParis square studs, and the connection with the leather strap is decorated with pure gold rivets. What is even more amazing is that the surface only uses simple three-pin Instruction, highlighting the delicate guilloché dial, and highlighting the round 4 floral Arabic numerals. The crown is inlaid with a convex sapphire decoration, which completes the overall visual beauty.


Infinite Creativity Across Breguet Tourbillon Across Two Centuries

When it comes to Breguet, you must mention the tourbillon, and vice versa. It can even be said that the tourbillon is Breguet. In 1795, Mr. Abraham Louis Breguet invented the Tourbillon creatively and was granted a patent six years later. The tourbillon puts the balance, hairspring and escapement within the frame, and constantly rotates to offset the negative impact of the earth’s gravity on the accuracy of the pocket watch. More precisely, no matter which vertical position the pocket watch is in (traditionally, the pocket watch is time-set in the following four vertical positions: crown up, down, left and right), the tourbillon speed is a single constant of.

Breguet Tourbillon movement
   The logic is simple: if the speed of the tourbillon is single and constant in all vertical positions, then just adjust the clock in a flat position and you will get an accurate timepiece. However, if the escapement system equipped with the watch needs to be oiled (the watch oil will deteriorate over time), the long-term stability of the best state of the tourbillon cannot be guaranteed, so ideally the tourbillon should be used with an oil-free escapement Coordinated with mechanism, such as detent or Daniel coaxial. Although the practicality of tourbillons in watches is still a controversial topic today, its advent has indeed improved the overall accuracy of pocket watches.

Breguet No. 1176 tourbillon chronograph pocket watch, sold by the St. Petersburg agent to Count Stanislas Potocki, Poland in 1809

Breguet No. 1176 Tourbillon Chronograph Pocket Watch equipped with a four-minute tourbillon with sesame chain
   The first two pocket watches known in history are No. 282 (according to the book The Art of Breguet, George Daniel considers this to be a prototype tourbillon pocket watch, which was not intended to be sold) and No. 169. No. 282 was assembled and sold by the son of Bao Bao in 1832. The story of No. 169 is interesting. The year of manufacture of the tourbillon frame is unknown. This pocket watch was assembled by Mr. Breguet in 1808, using a movement made by John Arnold in 1774 (according to the British Museum No. 169 catalogue) Literature), the movement is engraved with ‘1ERE REGULATEUR A TOURBILLON DE BREGUET’ (the Breguet’s first tourbillon speed regulator pocket watch with the words ‘Dedicated to John Arnold, a close friend of Breguet’), but George · Daniel’s view is that No. 169 was ‘apparently’ later than No. 282.

Breguet No. 169 pocket watch with John Arnold movement, very early tourbillon frame

Private Collector-owned Classique Grande Complication Ref. 1907 pocket watch
   Today, Breguet still insists on manufacturing tourbillon pocket watches, including some very special models. The Classique Grande Complication Ref. 1907 (also known as the Million Dollar Breguet Pocket Watch) is neither an antique model (just released a few years ago) nor a model based on a previously existing model. It is a self-sounding Minute repeat pocket watch, tourbillon set at 5 o’clock position, exquisite guilloché dial in the standard pointer style, this pocket watch can be called Breguet’s model of pure design for more than two centuries.

Audemars Piguet Ref.25643BA ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon watch with cal. 2870 movement, 1986
   In 1986, it was actually Audemars Piguet, not Breguet, that introduced the first tourbillon watch in its series. Other brands, such as Omega, have previously manufactured tourbillon watches for observatory testing. In 1987, Omega assembled a batch of 1947 Cal.30I movements into finished watches for sale, but the original intention of the movement was not here. In addition, from the late 1940s to the 1980s, Patek Philippe also made some observatory tourbillon watches.
   Audemars Piguet Ref.25643BA tourbillon watch (equipped with Calibre 2870 movement) is an excellent timepiece. On the one hand, it has a large production scale and on the other hand, it is extremely slim. This watch was (and still is) the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch (the entire watch is only 4.8 mm thick). One of the reasons for this pioneering work is that Audemars Piguet has developed a lightweight titanium frame that reduces the required mechanical kinetic energy, so that the mainspring is extremely flat.

Breguet’s first tourbillon watch Ref. 3357, 1988
   In 1988, Breguet’s first tourbillon watch was long overdue. Although it had been developed for a long time, Breguet did not follow Audemars Piguet two years ago to respond. In fact, Breguet Ref. 3357 and Audemars Piguet Ref. 25543BA are very different. The movement on this watch was produced in the current location of the Breguet workshop. At that time, the building was owned by Nouvelle Lémania. , Nouvelle Lémania gradually merged into Breguet). Breguet Ref. 3357 has become the blueprint for tourbillon watches designed and manufactured by other brands: the tourbillon is set at 6 o’clock on the dial side, rotates once a minute, three arms support (one of them indicates seconds), balance wheel, lever And the escapement wheel is inside the frame. Except for a few details (such as shock absorbers), Ref. 3357 looks very much like the timepieces of Mr. Breguet’s time.

Breguet workshop in Vallée de Joux, Switzerland
   Today, many fine watchmakers’ catalogs include one (or more) tourbillon watches. Although there is no consensus on the practicality of the tourbillon in watches, there are divergent opinions and inconsistent watchmaking brands, but some brands are still confident in this mechanism, not only releasing multiple models of tourbillon watches, but even launching dual watch models. Innovative design of axes and three axes. Other brands, including the most famous Tag Heuer, are looking for ways to drastically reduce the manufacturing and retail costs of the Swiss tourbillon.
   Tourbillons are often regarded as the ultimate luxury accessory for watches, but there is still plenty of room for improvement in terms of technology. Breguet is researching new materials, hoping that they can provide solutions to problems that Abraham Louis Breguet has never encountered.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5377
   In 2013, Breguet introduced a self-made ultra-thin automatic tourbillon movement. Just like Audemars Piguet in 1986, Breguet made a tourbillon frame made of titanium (the entire watch thickness is 2.2 mm more than Audemars Ref.25643BA). Technically speaking, Breguet Ref. 5377 and Audemars Piguet Ref. 25543BA are slightly different. The former balance spring and lever escapement are made of silicon. In 2001, Athens used silicon for the Freak series for the first time. Since then, silicon has gradually become popular in the watchmaking industry and has gone further and further.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5377 ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon watch is one of the thinnest tourbillon watches ever
   In 2006, Breguet began to study the properties of silicon. Silicon is non-magnetic, non-corrosive, requires no lubricant, and can be accurately molded into a variety of shapes. Silicon is lighter than steel, and lower mass means more efficient energy transmission. Breguet Ref. 5377’s escapement gear teeth are hollowed out, and the balance frequency can reach 4 Hz (most tourbillon movements have a frequency of 3 Hz), making the movement more accurate. The tourbillon rotates once a minute and is equipped with a side lever escapement. If you look closely, you can find some modern clues, such as no screws can be seen on the dial-side tourbillon bridge, and the movement side is equipped with an unusual rotor.

   If it’s just a quick glance, you would think this is a manual winding watch. However, the pendulum does exist: Ref. 5377 sets a ring-shaped automatic tourbillon capable of bidirectional movement at the edge of the movement. The position of the pendulum is unobstructed, and the tourbillon frame and the movement bridge can be seen at a glance. In addition, the edge ring tourbillon does not affect the movement architecture like the miniature oscillating weight (another way to reduce the thickness of an automatic movement). Of course, the edge ring top increases the diameter of the movement (Ref. 5377 case diameter 42 mm), and at the same time raises many new questions, such as whether the oscillating weight is of sufficient quality to wind the mainspring efficiently? Breguet’s solution is to use platinum and mount the rotor on a low-friction ball bearing.

   For Breguet, the tourbillon defines brand history and inspires more research. From the first tourbillon pocket watch to the latest tourbillon timepiece creation, for more than two centuries nothing has changed, everything has changed. So when you see the tourbillon again, I hope you will not only think of it as the invention of Mr. Abraham Louis Breguet, but also recognize that this is the watchmaking industry still working hard by using technology and materials that did not exist in the inventor’s time Perfect mechanism.