Month: June 2020

Congratulations To Nfl Legend Tom Brady

Tom Brady is the core player of his team against the Atlanta Falcons. He has become part of the American football legend.

   The extraordinary performance against the Atlanta Falcons has allowed Tom Brady to win again this year’s most important game … and set three new records.
   He only needs to be on the field to set the first of these three records. He did it, becoming the first rugby player to reach the seven finals. But to set another two records, he has to show his strength.
   As the core player of the most important game of the year, Tom Brady led his New England Patriots to win the game. He had to withstand the pressure. His team was 25 points behind at the end of the third quarter. They successfully reversed in overtime. Stress-free Tom Brady passed 466 yards: another record for this game.
   This fifth victory made him the most successful quarterback in NFL history, but it was not enough to make him the most popular player on the planet. He will definitely win his sixth victory next season!

...

Sesame-sized Mechanical Magic Breguet Tradition 7047

Ref. 7047 is the 2007 Breguet Breguet model and the first complication of the Tradition series. It has undergone several changes since its launch, the most important of which was platinum in 2010. Edition, this change not only changed the case to platinum, the surface and the exposed substrate splint have been blackened, the core modification is to replace the hairspring with silicon, but also a Breguet-type three-dimensional spring This move not only specifically improved the performance of the movement, but also how to make the three-dimensional coiled Breguet hairspring in the process of silicon hairspring has also caused a discussion in the industry. Since then, Breguet has introduced this technology to other 7047 styles. For the platinum and rose gold versions that are still in service in the official catalog, both models use Breguet hairsprings made of silicon.

Pagoda wheels, barrels, tourbillons, and hour and minute plates roughly occupy the four corners of the surface, and the composition is still called equilibrium. There is a coaxial power reserve indicator on the barrel. This scale is a bit short for 50 hours of energy storage.

Feature one: the sesame chain with the open face design is completely natural
7047 is a sesame chain tourbillon. The launch of the Sesame-chain Tourbillon on Tradition is a magical stroke. This series of antique pocket watches from Breguet features a completely open face and minimizes the hour and minute dial with substantial time display, making the movement structure only possible. Show off. What the Tradition before 7047 can reveal is the middle barrel, travelling wheel train and escapement. This one has a pagoda wheel, sesame chain and a large tourbillon. These elements have to be found in general models. It’s not too ostentatious to show off, but it’s perfectly natural to put it on top of it, and it’s worth it.

In terms of the overall size of the tourbillon, it is a bold practice to fix it with only one arm, but the thickness of the bridge can be seen from the side, and this is more in line with the historical design style of the series. The balance wheel also uses the series of retro screw balances.

Feature two: the operating principle of sesame chain
The technical highlights of the models are basically ancient methods, and there are many interpretations of modern technology. The power section uses a sesame chain mechanism. The mainspring box is connected to the pagoda wheel through the sesame chain. When the mainspring is full, the sesame chain is wound around the top of the pagoda wheel with a smaller diameter. The mainspring box needs to be used for linkage. The larger force is just used to consume too strong torque when the full chain is consumed, and when the clockwork power is about to run out, the sesame chain is also rolled to the bottom of the pagoda wheel with a larger diameter. The high force is just in line with the torsion state of the mainspring. With this uniform movement, the torsional force transmitted from the mainspring box to the running gear can be maintained at a constant curve from beginning to end, making the movement more stable.

Unlike the other Traditions, the 7047 wheels are mainly driven from the back (back side). Although the power section and the escapement are on the front, they may take up too much space, so the middle link Both travel time trains are configured on the back

Feature three: intentional antique specifications
The part of the tourbillon here adopts the large size with ancient meaning. The size of the whole cage is about 16mm. In order to drive such a large device, they adopted several measures. In addition to the silicon balance spring mentioned at the beginning, the escapement fork and escape wheel of the escapement were also made of silicon. In addition, before the model was introduced into silicon, the movement The balance wheel and tourbillon cage are already made of titanium. The purpose of these actions is to reduce the weight of the device, on the one hand, to reduce the power load, and on the other hand, to reduce the impact of inertia centrifugal force on accuracy. In addition, the balance here has a low frequency of 18,000vph, which is of course to reduce the burden on the power section, but on such a retro model, the low-speed balance is more in line with the overall temperament.

Tradition Tourbillon Fusee Ref. 7047

18K rose gold material / 569 manual-winding movement / eccentric display, tourbillon device / sesame chain structure / power reserve display / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / water-resistant 30 meters / diameter 41mm / reference price: 1,260,000 RMB

...

The Fusion Of Japanese Decorative Arts And The Swiss Watchmaking Industry

In recent years, Japanese decorative techniques have quietly penetrated into the Swiss watchmaking industry. This root is based on common values, especially the attention to detail and portrayal. Wood grain metal, red painting, lacquer art, dill painting, etc. Many Japanese decorative arts have already died, and can only wait for their extinction, but now they are glamorous and open new windows in the Swiss watchmaking industry. Leaving aside the traditional craftsmanship of engraving, enamel and gem setting, many Swiss watchmakers have already paid tribute to Japanese master craftsmen. They are the last guardians of those ancient skills, and they are respected as ‘national treasures’ by the Japanese. The seemingly accidental encounter has a solid foundation, and it is a bridge of communication and collaboration for the almost paranoid focus on details. The latest example is from Harry Winston. The Premiere Precious Weaving 36mm self-winding watch uses Japanese weaving techniques, with gold threads and natural silver mother-of-pearl flakes overlapping each other. In addition to commercial success, Swiss watchmakers seem to have found a second self in the painstaking tradition of Japanese artisans.

Harry Winston Premiere Precious Weaving 36mm self-winding watch, using Japanese weaving techniques, overlapping gold threads with natural silver mother-of-pearl flakes

Dutch forerunner

The work of Kees Engelbarts, the dial is inspired by the Japanese sword blade, traditionally made of wood grain metal
   Almost certainly, Kees Engelbarts was the first person to introduce Japanese decorative techniques to the Swiss watchmaking industry. Kees Engelbarts was born in the Netherlands and moved to Geneva in the 1980s. He trained in the Netherlands and Germany to learn about hand-carving. In his 1997 watchmaking debut, Kees Engelbarts chose a technology that the industry had never explored before-Mokume-gane, literally wood-grain metal. Laying various metal flakes on top of each other and then heating them, the resulting effect is strikingly similar to natural wood grain. The secret lies in the different melting points of the metals. This craft was originally used to make Japanese knives and is now popular in the jewelry industry. ‘I was an apprentice when I learned about wood grain metal,’ said Kees Engelbarts. ‘I have been to Japan more than twenty times, but I never really studied the technique there. But I met with my colleagues and learned from them.’

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’ Art ‘Les Masques’
   More than a decade later, the work of Kees Engelbarts has become a source of inspiration for other brands, and Vacheron Constantin is one of them. Vacheron Constantin was originally a supporter of Métiers d’ Art, and in 2010 it became the first watchmaker to present the art of painting. Artisans create patterns by spraying gold powder on wet paint, the so-called dill painting, which means ‘spray into a painting.’ ‘Métiers d’Art ‘Les Masques’ is a brand new attempt by Vacheron Constantin, and the huge response is far beyond the watchmaking circle,’ recalled Christian Selmoni, art director. ‘Zôhiko was one of the oldest lacquerware workshops in Japan. The cooperation was completely unexpected, and this is the beginning of everything! ”Subsequently, the Métiers d’Art ‘La Symbolique des Laques’ series launched watches with different themes within three years, each year a set of three new watches , Limited to twenty sets.

Collision of ideas

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Monkey

Master Makie Koizumi has painted gold on the dial
   Chopard then launched a Japanese-style watch collection: L.U.C XP Urushi. The series is named after a rare tree that is only present in Japan and China. Its sap can be used to make the base paint of the maki painting technique. ‘A handful of watches from the hands of lacquer master Kiichiro Masura in 2008 have been exhibited in Japan,’ said Guy Bove, a former Chopard creative director (now a consultant). ‘The idea was to apply a certain material technique , Presents Chopard watchmaking, and resonates with Japan. We like those watches very much, and so does the public, so the brand decided to make a complete collection. ‘At the Basel International Watch & Jewellery Show this year, the Lupin XP Urushi Year of the Monkey launched by Chopard. The limited edition watch is the latest masterpiece of this series.

Kari Voutilainen, 28 Hisui watch, 29 mm in platinum case, hour and minute display function, the manual winding movement equipped with it is completely handmade, the dial is decorated with dill painting technology, the material is gold powder and shell fragments

   Although Kari Voutilainen is an advocate of pure Swiss watchmaking tradition, he also opens his heart and embraces Japanese craftsmanship. In 2011, Kari Voutilainen released the first collaboration between the Personal Trava Valley Workshop and Wajma (a small fishing village in eastern Tokyo) Unryuan Studio. This studio, called ‘Yunlongyu’, is hosted by ‘The National Treasure of the World’, Takao Kitamura, and continues the art of painting. In addition to gold powder and lacquer, the artist’s creative materials also include gold foil, green turquoise shell and New Zealand abalone shell, achieving a unique rainbow miniature mosaic artistic effect. ‘From 1999 to 2002, I taught at WOSTEP (Swiss Watchmaker Training and Education Project), and a Japanese student introduced me to Kitamura Tatsuo,’ explained Kari Voutilainen. ‘If I just picked up the phone, I asked for it, He would not agree to see me, he must be recommended. ‘Initial contact has developed into mutual respect. So far, the two have worked together to create six timepiece works. ‘What matters to me is the ethics and good values ​​behind Japanese art, and this explains why the atmosphere between the two workshops is so similar.’

Continuation of tradition

Hermès Slim dʼHermès Koma Kurabe watch, Saffle porcelain dial, detailed with red painting, showing the annual horse racing scene of the Shrine
   In 2015, Hermès launched the Slim dʼHermès Koma Kurabe watch. It came out of both unexpected invitations and thanks to both parties’ interest in each other’s work. ‘In 2010, a small Hermès delegation went to Kanazawa and, under the direction of the Japanese authorities, explored local handicrafts,’ recalled Art Director Philippe Delhotal. ‘It was during this trip that I met Fukuyama, Fukushima. He is an expert in Japanese red painting crafts, especially good at painting on ceramics. I asked him if he was interested in making watch dials, and he gladly agreed. ‘After extensive research, it took another two years to finally select Saffle porcelain as the dial Material. The pigment comes from iron oxide powder and has a bright magenta color. Takeshima Fukushima reproduces the scene of the Koma Kurabe horse racing event on the dial. This event is held once a year at the Tokyo Kamobetsu Shrine (built in 678 AD).

Japanese national treasure master craftsman, ceramic painting expert Takeyama Fukushima
   The popularity of Métiers d’Art in the watchmaking industry has helped revive some of the forgotten skills; watchmakers have shown what Guy Bove has called an ‘open mindset’ and are beginning to explore a more distant horizon; and Japan is very happy Welcome on the ground. Kari Voutilainen said excitedly: ‘I was immediately overwhelmed by the attention to detail and the superb craftsmanship. It was shocking.’ Christian Selmoni confirmed: ‘Japanese do not speak English, we do not speak Japanese. But after a while After time, we can be more in line with the plating company than before. This is a truly rich and fulfilling experience. ‘For the Japanese,’ Working with Swiss watchmakers is also a way for them to continue their tradition. ‘

...