The founder of the brand, Abraham-Louis Breguet, devoted his lifelong talents to time measurement. He earned a reputation for his unparalleled enthusiasm and many revolutionary pioneering works. In European history, King Louis XVIII of France was his famous supporter. In 1814, Louis XVIII appointed Breguet in Paris as a member of the French Longitude Committee. Established by the French National Association in 1795, the Longitude Committee is dedicated to promoting the development of various branches of astronomy and its applications in geography, navigation and geodesy (disciplines for the study and measurement of geophysical forms). Its main duties include publishing astronomy every year Professional reference books such as ephemeris. The Longitude Committee is well-known and has about 20 members, including geometricians, astronomers, navigators, and related industry giants. Horology is crucial to physics and navigation, and it also holds a seat on the committee. Breguet is especially good at navigating the longitude, which is the well-deserved authority and sole representative in the horological field. On October 27, 1815, Master Breguet was honored again, and Louis XVIII issued an order granting Breguet the official title of ‘Manufacturer of Royal French Royal Precision Timepieces’.
Nautical precision timekeeping involves extremely deep professional scientific knowledge, so this title is the highest honor that watchmakers can win, and it also means shouldering national responsibility. At that time, marine timing devices were vital to the fleet and could be used to measure the position of ships at sea.
Adhering to the historical achievements of this unique watch altar, Breguet has launched the Breguet Marine Equation Marchante 5887, a unique masterpiece in the world. This superbly complex watch marks a new era for the Breguet Marine collection.
The time equation display is an extraordinary and fascinating horological complex that shows the difference between the average solar time (‘flat solar time’) and the true solar time (‘true solar time’). Normal solar time, that is, civilian time, refers to the local standard time indicated by the clock; true solar time reflects the true movement of the sun.
Since ancient times, humans have measured time with the sun as a reference. However, the visible trajectory of the sun, the real solar time shown on the sundial, is irregular. With the improvement of timing accuracy, clocks have become the basis for measuring time. People use the normal solar time instead of the real solar time, and define the time of each day as 24 hours equally. The cumulative time difference between normal solar time and true solar time in a day ranges from 16 minutes slow to 14 minutes fast. Only 4 days in a year are exactly equal. Since the position of the sun in the sky changes exactly on the same date each year, watchmakers can use a special cam to ‘plan.’ The cam is shaped like the number ‘8’, which can simulate the continuous trajectory of the sun position (‘eight-shaped curve’) mechanically. To ensure extreme precision, the cam is equipped with a stylus that drives the jet lag lever and displays the time difference between civilian time and solar time (-16 to +14 minutes). The time difference is usually displayed through a sector or small dial on the dial. The wearer calculates the true solar time by adding or subtracting the time difference based on the average solar time displayed on the dial. The new Breguet Marine Equatioin Marchante watch subverts this traditional design, displaying the civil time and solar time at the same time through two independent minute hands. The sun hour hand is decorated with a hollow faceted golden sun, which can read the real sun time directly at a glance. However, behind the seemingly simple display, it is the precise structure that only a few top watchmakers can complete. The solar hour hand must meet two requirements: one is to continuously rotate along the dial like a civilian hour hand; the other is to adjust the angle distance between the hour hand and the civilian hour hand according to the figure 8 curve. The principle of this innovative design of Breguet is that the solar hour hand is driven by a differential gear, and the power comes from two completely independent rotating frames: one drives the rotation of the civilian hour hand, and the other is through a push rod connected to the time equation cam. Control, time equation cam rotates a full week each year. The time equation cam developed by Breguet is extremely thin, placed on a transparent sapphire disc, and the time difference is calibrated once a month.
In addition to the mysterious time equation function, this super complex watch has a perpetual calendar function which is one of the three major complications. The dial has a day display window from 10 to 11 o’clock, and the month and leap year calendar are displayed from 1 to 2 o’clock. A retrograde hand with an anchor motif on the tip of the needle rotates along the fan surface between 9 and 3 o’clock on the inside of the scale ring to indicate the date. The information display of the dial is carefully laid out, beautiful and concise, at a glance.
Breguet’s new Marine Equation Marchante watch is equipped with a 581DR self-winding movement, adding another proud feature to the watch: a 60-second tourbillon, a Breguet balance wheel built into the titanium frame, and silicon gossamer. This innovative design allows the balance to vibrate up to 4 Hz, while providing a self-winding movement with a sufficient power reserve of up to 80 hours. There is a power reserve indicator at 7 to 9 o’clock on the dial.
The masterpiece of this watch is created by the highly skilled Breguet watchmakers, and the design is ingenious. The front of the dial is decorated with two different engraved patterns, of which the delicate wave pattern is specially designed for this watch. The tourbillon bridge is engraved with the words ‘Marine royale’ and is striking. The bridge is carefully engraved with the Royal French First Class battleship ‘Royal Louis’. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, you can see the fine details. Clockwork box with wind rose nautical compass. The automatic hammer is located on the outer edge of the movement. The layout is exquisite. The gorgeous decoration makes this automatic movement perfect.
Breguet’s new Marine Equation Marchante watch is exceptional, opening a new era in the Marine Marine series. Many novel aesthetic design elements add a stylish and dynamic character to the watch: the central lugs are polished and alternately polished with satin, and the coin pattern on the outer edge of the case is clearer and three-dimensional. The crown is polished with a delicate satin finish and is engraved with a polished ‘B’ sample card mark; the other corresponding crown is decorated with a delicate wave pattern hand-chamfered and satin-finished. This superb complication watch is available in a rose or platinum case with a diameter of 43.9 mm. Rose gold case with silver dial and anthracite movement; platinum case with blue dial and rhodium-plated movement. Both styles are extremely gorgeous, combining elegant temperament, clear practical functions, and exquisite and harmonious aesthetic design.
Breguet MARINE ÉQUATION MARCHANTE 5887
Number: 5887PT / Y2 / 9WV
The case is 950 platinum, and the outer edge of the case is decorated with coin patterns. Sapphire crystal case back. 43.9 mm in diameter. Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters).
Blue gold dial with engraved engraving. Has a unique number and Breguet stealth signature. Scale ring with Roman numerals with luminous dots. Breguet hollow faceted 18K gold hands covered with luminous material. Sun-time hands with cutout faceted golden sun. The day of the week window is between 10:00 and 11:00. Month and leap year cycle displays are located between 1 and 2 o’clock. The retrograde date indicates a fan-shaped area at 9 to 3 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is located between 7 and 9 o’clock.
With automatic winding movement, with time equation, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and 80-hour power reserve function, it is engraved with organic core number and Breguet. Small seconds and time equation cams are placed on the tourbillon shaft. Caliber 581DPE. 16¾ French cents. 57 gems. With silicon escape wheel and flip bar, with silicon escapement and silicon balance spring. The vibration frequency is 4 Hz. 6 orientation adjustment.
The strap is made of crocodile leather with a gold folding buckle.
Also available in 18K rose gold with silver-plated gold dial and anthracite movement:
No. 5887BR / 12 / 9WV